Words by Jess Ralph The Queen is dead, boys. And no, of course, we’re not referring to QE2. Dame Vivienne Westwood passed away on the 29th of December 2022, casting a sombre cloud of collective mourning across the fashion industry and leaving behind her a legacy of cultural influence so seismic and far reaching it… Read more »
Words by Jess Ralph Utilitarian, empowering, confrontational, queer- the buzzcut is a hairstyle loaded with symbolism, and rooted in the political. The heritage of close shave style – hair cut so short that only a hint of a stubby hair follicle remains – lies in the military. Arguably, the buzz cut can be traced as… Read more »
Words by Jess Ralph The Gimp Mask- While a certain cohort of the sartorially minded has immersed itself in the unabashed girlishness of the Y2K era – all micro miniskirts, diamante crop tops and baby pink- others, who like their sexy served with a side order of subversion, have been whipping out the talcum powder,… Read more »
Words by Jess Ralph Underground speaks to Olli Hull, the London based artist and designer who is blurring the lines between fashion and the visual arts with his hand painted, graffiti embellished, upcycled garments and fashion imagery inspired paintings exploring themes of identity, consumerism and mental health. Hi Olli! Could you introduce yourself and work? I’m a… Read more »
Words by Jess Ralph Studio FCLX is the East London based brand on a mission to push the boundaries, and your preconceptions, about latex clothing. Genderfluid and ethically conscious, FCLX’s playful yet transgressive wearable rubber pieces are the creative vision of brand founder and designer Lexi, who’s taking the historically provocative material out of the darkness and onto… Read more »
The latest in our series investigating overlooked or obscured figures in musical and subcultural history takes a look at the “Queen of Punk” herself, Edwige Belmore (The previous edition of ‘Ever Heard of…’ about frontman of New York’s punk duo ‘Suicide’, Alan Vega can be read here) Born in Paris, the model, musician, and fashion… Read more »
With fashion being synonymous with the expression of one’s character, how you decide to style an outfit is something that will create your own image for others to perceive. Fashion holds the power for the wearer to express themselves freely, and with so many subcultures, and cultures holding their own wardrobe which is seen as… Read more »
Celebrating 40 years of Underground we look back at some of the collaborations with brands, bands, and artists over the years.Ten years ago, we worked with London designer Ashish to provide the classic Wulfrun Creeper for their runway show. Ashish Gupta had descended on London Fashion Week in 2004 with his blend of Western and… Read more »
One year ago, recently graduated and newly redundant, Lucinda Graham set out to re-define what sustainable fashion could mean in the midst of a pandemic. Working from her parents’ dining room, equipped with discarded upholstery fabric and a grant (to buy an overlocker with), Lucinda assembled crochet, patch-worked garments; “rebirthing subculture through DIY aesthetics.” A… Read more »
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